Sunday, May 10, 2009

KLR 650 Dash Plate



Yesterdays project was making a Dash Plate to hold my accessory switch and heated grip switch. I also am going to wire in a voltmeter here soon. I purchased a cheap 4 dollar one to modify by moving the screen, but the screen isn't connected by wires...only touch contact with the board!

The primary reason I wanted the dash was due to having the accessory ran directly off the battery with only an inline fuse. I have left my grips on twice, both leaving the bike dead. I purchased a light up toggle switch so I have to turn it on to run any accessories (voltmeter soon, 12v socket) and heated grips. It is more dumb proof so I don't find myself stranded some day to push start on gravel...

The project started as follows:
Headed to hardware store to purchase up to 3" wide aluminum (they only had 2 which is good anyway), some 1/8" x 3/4" strip aluminum, and 4 washers, 2-1/4" bolts, 2 - 1/6" bolts (or so) for side to side control, and 4 nuts with nylon for vibration.

Here is before:

I cut the 1/4" strip in around 8" lengths and cut channels into them to bend accordingly. The faceplate I traced the form on some cardboard and then cut out the 1/8" x 2" material. I then had to modify the bottom so the speedometer wouldn't hit it (here is where I wish I had more tools!). I had a hack saw and a 1/2" wide file to work with so the cutout turned out wierd shaped, but I will work on that someother day. (it rains alot in oregon)...


Then came the fun of mounting:


And for the toggle switches: there is nothing like drilling 7/8" holes in 1/8" aluminum with a 6v drill and only a 1/2" drill bit :) Nothing can be made easy right? For the future diy'er I would purchase the taper drill bits that can be found at Sears or such...

Finished product:


Notes and tips:
1. Solder all connections (I only soldered to the switch as I do not have a plug in outside, then wrapped the wires together, electrical taped, then zip tied the wires, and the connection firmly) I will solder when I find a good location to do so.

2. Make sure all your wires are not routed through anything related to the steering center piece, or be prepared for extra wire requirements from steering lock to lock turns.

3. Use nylon lock nuts and washers for the big bolts to have a tight fit and one that will not vibrate loose.

I used it last night and it worked great :)

2 comments:

  1. Hey,
    Regarding the voltmeter, here's the one we setup for B since we had a similar problem.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101047

    I also included a remote battery lead since the F650GS is a pain to reach the battery.

    One more note, you may want to consider a relay that shuts all aux circuits when the ignition is off. (I have to work pretty hard to de-dumb my vehicles. God made a better idiot)

    ReplyDelete